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how many shots for my 5dmark 3 and 16-35mm lens?

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  • how many shots for my 5dmark 3 and 16-35mm lens?

    Hey all,
    I am new to the 360, have watched tons of videos online and read a lot of the articles here, but cannot find videos on how to figure this out, I could use some help with a few things:
    1. I have a canon 5d mark 3, with the 16-35mm lens and the nn3 mk3. I want to shoot up and down as well to get full coverage.
    How many shots level all the way around with my set up? and what degree do I shoot up and down or is it straight up and down? I have seen so many different ways to do it and really just need guidance.
    2. do I need a tripod head or can I put the nn straight on top of the tripod?
    Thank you in advance for the help!!

  • #2
    Hello Kristin, welcome to the wonderful world of 360° Panoramas.

    Although I don't have the same kit as you (Nikon FX body + 10.5mm fisheye + NN3) I can hopefully give you some pointers.
    A rule of thumb is that the shorter the focal length the greater the angle of view so the less shots round and less rows needed but less resolution.
    There are a number of 'tables' which you can find with a search engine, but I fund I tend to take more shots than these tables suggest because I try and aim for 50% overlap horizontally and between 30% (maybe 25%) and 50% between I find this kind of overlap gives me good Control Point generation in PTGui and enough to use the 'Mask' tool to edit out 'movement'.
    For example: with FX body and 10.5mm fisheye and the camera in 'portrait' orientation I can take a single row with 4 shots round at +7.5° plus 1 hand held nadir shot, but if there is movement from people, animals, clouds, etc. I take 6 shots round to give me more scope with the 'Mask' tool.

    First though is a question about your lens; is it a fisheye or rectilinear (normal) lens because this will govern the angle of view?

    1. I think the easiest way for you to decide how many shots round is to set up on the NN3 with the lens horizontal and using the viewfinder note the object at the centre of the field of view then turn the rig horizontally until that object is against the left edge of the viewfinder and repeat this until you come back to your starting point counting the number of pointings which will give you the number of shots round for roughly a 50% overlap, then you can decide whether you wish to take more or less or the same.
    Then tip the camera up to say a 30% overlap between the rows and repeat the process. You should find you need less shots round.
    Repeat this until you have 'closed the zenith'. You do not want the top of the image to be exactly on the zenith, but a little over otherwise you will not get good blending at the zenith.
    Repeat this tilting the camera down for the rows towards the nadir, but as the nadir is obscured by the NN3 and Tripod you don't need to worry about overlapping at the nadir as with the zenith and can take a 'hand held shot to fill the nadir.

    2. You do not need a Tripod Head provided your Tripod has a 3/8" Whitworth thread the same as on the NN3.
    I have my NN3 fitted directly to the top of the Tripod and start off with all three legs fully extended then gently lower one or usually two legs to get the bubble level.

    If you can provide more information about your lens I can calculate a starting shooting pattern for you.

    Also you could consider acquiring say an 8mm fisheye and starting off with single row 4 shot round panoramas. The Samyang 8mm is relatively low cost so a good starter lens.

    Hope this helps.
    If you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask.


    • #3
      Having scanned the Internet I have come to the conclusion that your 16-35 mm lens is a rectilinear (normal) lens and not a fisheye so subtends something like 96.75° on the long side and 73.75° on the short side on your Canon 5d.
      From this I calculate that you will need a 3 row panorama with the first row horizontal, the second row at +35° (to close the zenith) and the third row at -40°.
      To get a 50% overlap on the horizontal row you will need 10 shots round, but 8 shots round should be enough.
      Fit the NN3 with the 8 pointing 'detent ring' (i.e. 45° intervals) and take 8 shots round for each of the 3 rows.
      You could shoot less shots round for the up and down rows, but it is not normal to change the 'detent ring' mid shoot.
      I suspect you perhaps only need 4 shots round for the up and down rows (i.e. 2 clicks on the 8 pointing 'detent ring') and you cam see if this is the case once you have your set of images.
      Chose a subject which has plenty of detail between each image and each row so that PTGui can easily generate Control Points/

      Let us know how you get on..


      • #4
        Hey thank you so much Hugh! I just realized that my fish eye is no longer working and no longer available to be repaired so now I need to get another, so will have the 8-15mm fisheye. When using that I would get the R1. Any tips you would share on that? thanks!!


        • #5
          Using the 8-15mm fisheye on an R1 I would start off by choosing a subject with no movement in it (no people, animals, moving clouds or leaves) using the lens at the 8mm end with 4 shots round and an upward tilt of 7.5° (which will close the zenith).
          Take a 'hand held' shot to the nadir - I do this by standing to one side and holding the camera (still on the tripod with the tripod now held horizontally) at the best estimate of where the shots round were taken - It does not need to be too accurate, but the surface must be flat or a gently sloping plane for the software to 'patch in' the nadir shot.
          Make sure the R1 is 'locked' before doing this so the camera does not swing round.

          This arrangement should give you a good 'stitch' and a good starting point from which you can experiment further.